thoughts on surfing

photoI’ve always wanted to know how to surf. Back in January, during “New Years Resolution” time, I decided that this year would be the year to learn to surf. After my first full attempt, I’m realizing it might have been a bit naive to assume that the ‘learning to surf’ would somehow be accomplished so quickly! 


I also realized that it’s a bit humbling to try something new.  Okay, more than a bit. It’s hard to pretend you know what you’re doing as you’re falling off the board more than staying on.

A few things I’ve learned, thus far: 

  • It’s way more fun to go when the water is warm, even with a wetsuit
  • Though the cool yellow/orange colors of my ‘challenger’ board (bought at the K38 Surf Shop under Jesus) might have been appealing, the ‘foamy‘ that a friend let me try today is probably a lot more realistic for my current abilities. 
  • Don’t try to look cool, it’s just not possible (yet!)
  • It’s really fun when you actually can catch a wave and do a decent job of standing up
  • There’s something freeing (though also dangerous) about being surrounded by other beginners who are flailing around as well
  • I think I need to get in better shape
  • I’m looking forward to going back out again

One response to “thoughts on surfing

  1. Re: Thoughts on Surfing.

    Surfing is like life – it’s a combination of positioning yourself in the right spot and following your instincts. But most importantly, surfing is about living in the moment. When you catch a wave and ride it, past and future become irrelevant and all that matters is the present moment. Life is a lot like that. We spend a lot of time paddling around, scanning the horizon, trying to position ourselves in the optimal spot to catch a good wave. Once one comes along, you must use your skills to know just when to start swimming, when to stand up, how to stay balanced and focused, and ultimately, know when the ride’s over.

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