Tag Archives: falling

thoughts on surfing

photoI’ve always wanted to know how to surf. Back in January, during “New Years Resolution” time, I decided that this year would be the year to learn to surf. After my first full attempt, I’m realizing it might have been a bit naive to assume that the ‘learning to surf’ would somehow be accomplished so quickly! 


I also realized that it’s a bit humbling to try something new.  Okay, more than a bit. It’s hard to pretend you know what you’re doing as you’re falling off the board more than staying on.

A few things I’ve learned, thus far: 

  • It’s way more fun to go when the water is warm, even with a wetsuit
  • Though the cool yellow/orange colors of my ‘challenger’ board (bought at the K38 Surf Shop under Jesus) might have been appealing, the ‘foamy‘ that a friend let me try today is probably a lot more realistic for my current abilities. 
  • Don’t try to look cool, it’s just not possible (yet!)
  • It’s really fun when you actually can catch a wave and do a decent job of standing up
  • There’s something freeing (though also dangerous) about being surrounded by other beginners who are flailing around as well
  • I think I need to get in better shape
  • I’m looking forward to going back out again